Putha Hiunchuli(7,246 m)

Climb at a glance

Climb highlights

About this climb

Also called Dhaulagiri VII, Putha Hiunchuli rises at the wild western end of the Dhaulagiri range on the edge of Dolpo — a quiet, scenic 7,000 m objective.

Rising to 7,246 m at the westernmost end of the Dhaulagiri range, Putha Hiunchuli — also known as Dhaulagiri VII — is the last of the range's great 7,000 m peaks. Despite this distinction, it remains one of the most understated summits in Nepal, drawing climbers and trekkers who value remoteness as much as altitude.

Set on the far western edge of the Dhaulagiri massif, above the Kali Gandaki and Bheri river valleys, the mountain carries a quiet sense of isolation. It was this same wildness that drew explorer Jimmy Roberts to the peak in 1954; together with Ang Nyima Sherpa, he made the first ascent via the North Ridge, and it has since remained a magnet for mountaineers seeking an authentic Himalayan expedition away from the crowds.

The route offers several possible lines to the summit, each technically demanding without being extreme, making Putha Hiunchuli a serious but achievable objective for well-prepared climbers. The journey begins with flights from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and on to Dolpo (Jhupal), followed by a trek through Dunai, Tarakot, Musikhola and Kakot to Base Camp. From there, the route continues to Camp 1 — with the option to ski between Camp 1 and Camp 2 — before a pre-dawn summit push, typically starting around 4 a.m. on summit day. On a clear ascent, climbers pass a false summit before reaching the true top of Dhaulagiri VII.

More than a summit bid, this expedition is a journey through some of Nepal's most remote villages and landscapes — a chance to test yourself against altitude and terrain while tracing a route walked by very few before you.